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I am making coq au vin for the yogi tonight. Not from a coq, alas, I do not have one; not, to be honest, from a chicken entire of any description. Lucky's was selling chicken legs, remarkably cheap, so I bought some. Packaged in pairs.

I just took them out of their packages, to dismember drumstick from thigh - and found that wasn't all I needed to do, because the legs were all still attached to their backbone. Fine by me, it all adds depth and flavour for very little extra work - but I've never seen that in England, a leg with a spine to it. And with two legs to a pack, one cannot help but wonder. Do double-yolker eggs hatch double-spined chickens?

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