Comfort cooking
May. 22nd, 2008 06:41 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
It has been said, I am not as other men. Others have comfort food, which is familiar, unchallenging, reductive. I have comfort cooking, which is - well, rather the opposite.
Today I made a gorgeous horseradish sauce from my own grown horseradish root, my own chives, my own mayonnaise. Somebody else's Dijon mustard, which I can't replicate on account of not being in Dijon; somebody else's sour cream, which I can't produce on account of not having a cow. Nor, frankly, wanting one. I would adore the fresh dairy that comes with, but animal husbandry is not for me.
And now I am cooking tripe. I have never done this before; but there's a stall in the market that sells four different kinds, and I need to know. So. I have four different kinds of tripe, which I have washed and soaked and parboiled with salt and washed again, and then fried with onions and garlic, then sizzled in red wine vinegar. Then I added tomatoes and herbs and a dried chilli and some smoked paprika, and it's all in the slow cooker now. I'll give it a taste before I go to bed, but I may leave it going overnight. And we shall see. If it's nice, there are cannellini beans soaking to be added tomorrow, and some pork and smoked bacon too. If it's horrid, well. I can do something nice with beans and pork and smoked bacon.
[ETA: I should explain, the horseradish sauce and the tripe do not go together. No, no. The horseradish is for the beef sandwiches, for lunch. The beef is from the brisket that I simmered in the stock. The stock is for the beef-and-fennel risotto that I shall eat tonight while the tripe is slowly cooking - tho' I neglected to mention that a little of that stock has also found its way into the tripe.]
Today I made a gorgeous horseradish sauce from my own grown horseradish root, my own chives, my own mayonnaise. Somebody else's Dijon mustard, which I can't replicate on account of not being in Dijon; somebody else's sour cream, which I can't produce on account of not having a cow. Nor, frankly, wanting one. I would adore the fresh dairy that comes with, but animal husbandry is not for me.
And now I am cooking tripe. I have never done this before; but there's a stall in the market that sells four different kinds, and I need to know. So. I have four different kinds of tripe, which I have washed and soaked and parboiled with salt and washed again, and then fried with onions and garlic, then sizzled in red wine vinegar. Then I added tomatoes and herbs and a dried chilli and some smoked paprika, and it's all in the slow cooker now. I'll give it a taste before I go to bed, but I may leave it going overnight. And we shall see. If it's nice, there are cannellini beans soaking to be added tomorrow, and some pork and smoked bacon too. If it's horrid, well. I can do something nice with beans and pork and smoked bacon.
[ETA: I should explain, the horseradish sauce and the tripe do not go together. No, no. The horseradish is for the beef sandwiches, for lunch. The beef is from the brisket that I simmered in the stock. The stock is for the beef-and-fennel risotto that I shall eat tonight while the tripe is slowly cooking - tho' I neglected to mention that a little of that stock has also found its way into the tripe.]
(no subject)
Date: 2008-05-22 06:57 pm (UTC)*eyes hall kitchen mournfully*
(no subject)
Date: 2008-05-22 09:25 pm (UTC)You are a braver man than I.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-05-22 09:52 pm (UTC)When I was a kid, very occasionally Mum would make herself a bowl of tripe, and eat it by herself and never offer us a spoonful. I have never quite figured out why she did this. My eventual first encounter was at the Semana Negra in Spain, where they were serving tripe a la provencale in the giant food tent. Which I kinda liked, though I may have exaggerated my pleasure on account of keeping company with a really prissy American who couldn't conceivably eat it once he'd discovered what it was.
But I've been walking past the tripe stall for years, looking, thinking "must do that" - and here I am finally doing it, and y'know what? It's nice already. By tomorrow night, when I've added the cannellini beans and other meats and fiddled with the flavourings and so forth, it's going to be gorgeous.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-05-23 09:38 am (UTC)PS if you are ever in Paris I strongly recommend a visit to Ribouldingue, a charming little restaurant specialising in offal.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-05-23 09:54 am (UTC)And thank you for the recommendation. If I'm ever there, I will pursue. Similarly, next time you're in London, if you've never eaten at St John, it's well worth seeking out. I had brains and chitterlings, me...
(no subject)
Date: 2008-05-23 11:16 am (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-05-23 11:24 am (UTC)Are you two eaters of tripe, or is it all too much about the texture...?
(no subject)
Date: 2008-05-24 10:03 am (UTC)Don't know, I've never tried. I keep thinking I should, and eyeing up those nice glass jars of ready meal that they sell in French supermarkets, but somehow it nevers happens. And
On the other hand, he insisted I buy some globe artichokes...
(no subject)
Date: 2008-05-24 01:00 pm (UTC)But I shall bottle up some tripe and pass it along; you can make the cautious endeavour, and if you don't like it, it won't matter.